Sunday July 11 Alaska, finally!

Sunday July 11, Alaska’s Southeast: 7 A.M. and Ketchikan awaits! John rousted us all for a 4 hour port visit at this southernmost Alaskan town. Two unbelievably huge cruise ships were parked right downtown, a testament to the deep waters and steep shoreline. Ketchikan stretches out along just 1 road next to the water, save for the part of town hosting a Native American-run salmon hatchery and a totem pole cultural center, where we practiced saying “Tlingit”. There were beautiful examples of beadwork (mostly buttons sewn to wool blankets, actually), painted cedar masks and very finely woven basketry. And glass cases full of weathered totems lying horizontal, rescued in the 1980’s from nearby abandoned native villages.

Back on the ferry, we stopped next at the roughhewn town of Wrangell, in the foggy drizzle. Fei purchased a large garnet embedded in dark grey rock from a 10 year old girl. Her card table was set up at the far end of the parking lot for selling the fruits of her labor to us tourists – the biggest attraction around! Under way again, at dusk around 11 PM, the ferry entered the coolest part of the voyage - through Wrangell Narrows, a shallow channel bifurcating Mitkof Island. We slowly weaved between closely placed red and green glowing beacons, as the ferry made countless small adjustments in direction. The shore was close in on both sides of the boat. We drifted by the lights of fishing houses and cabins on the rocky beaches and looked for animals on the shore. It felt like a northern version of the Pirates of the Caribbean ride at Disneyland! One place was shooting off fireworks as we passed, so we cheered.